In the photo, the splices are without heat shrink tube but you should definitely add some to protect everything from shorting out. Next, I stripped 12 mm (1/2”) of the wire and twisted each color tails (with an extra header wire) together and applied some solder to make a simple rat-tail splice. I soldered lengths of wires on the connectors with the following pinout: I guess it’s over-the-air updates for me, then…Ĭonnecting multiple one-wire sensors to one device is easy: you just need to connect each wire in parallel. I just made the mistake of blocking the USB connector. I wanted to mount my device vertically so that the power connector exits down and the temperature sensor connectors to the right. The east side can easily fit connectors but one in the southeast corner will block the USB. If you don’t have the GPIO header in place, the north edge of the SH-ESP32 has a plenty of room for connectors. Once you have the template in place, decide where you want the connectors. It doesn’t matter if you tape over the template: at least masking tape is sufficiently translucent to show through the tape. Fix the template with a generous helping of tape. Then pull the paper taut over the enclosure and ensure that the other midpoint marks are correctly aligned. Align one side of the template with the midpoint mark and tape the end to the enclosure. Then mark midpoints of the enclosure sides with a felt pen. To apply the template, first cut it out along the edges. The template paper size is the international standard A4, so especially North Americans should be careful not to accidentally scale the print when printing on Letter size paper.
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When printing the template, pay attention that it isn’t scaled. Due to the number of holes required, I prepared a printable drill template that can be taped on the enclosure. The enclosure needs to have holes drilled for the different connectors. In this tutorial, I’ll instead use separate connectors to allow for a more flexible installation. Removing the SH-ESP32 for modifications or debugging is difficult because the connections are permanent. This approach works fine but is cumbersome for maintenance. I have previously had a similar setup where I spliced individual sensors together outside of the enclosure and routed them into the enclosure through a cable gland.
![setting up an alarm on nmea 2000 network setting up an alarm on nmea 2000 network](https://i.ytimg.com/vi/U4jAxINtF5w/hqdefault.jpg)
![setting up an alarm on nmea 2000 network setting up an alarm on nmea 2000 network](https://s1.manualzz.com/store/data/012647142_1-cdc266d3be9634fdbd18cdbca6bb13e9-360x466.png)
![setting up an alarm on nmea 2000 network setting up an alarm on nmea 2000 network](https://citimarinestore.com/32274-large_default/yacht-devices-nmea-2000-alarm-button-ydab-01.jpg)
One SH-ESP32 can support as many temperature sensors as can be practically connected to it. I have had a similar setup for several years and it gives me an extra peace of mind: I would get an early alarm if the temperature would begin to rise (I’ve had coolant issues in the past), and also if I ever would forget to open the water intake seacock, I would get an alarm of rising exhaust temperature before anything irreversible could happen. My own engine is a Yanmar 3GM30F but the approach is completely generic and can be adapted to any engine. This tutorial will walk you through creating a temperature sensing device that can be used for example to measure engine oil, coolant, and wet exhaust temperatures of of any engine that doesn’t already report these temperatures to Signal K or your N2K network. 1-Wire temperature sensing Table of contents